I gripped my children’s hands and took a deep breath – we were going for it. The adrenaline was coursing through my body as I stepped off the curb and onto the road. Would there be a screech of tyres? Would we be catapulted into the air from a moped slamming into us?
For what seemed like an eternity, we made it across to the other side of the street, navigating fast-moving tuk-tuks, mopeds and taxis. We were alive. High fives all around as we survived our first-ever crossing in Hanoi.
Welcome to Hanoi. A city full of people (around 8.6 million of them), mopeds, and buildings. From the stunning colonial architecture, still lakes, ancient temples and an Old Quarter that still retains its chaotic, intoxicating pull, there’s never a dull moment.
As for learning to cross Hanoi’s packed roads, haphazard as it may seem, drivers and cyclists do seem to know what they’re doing. The worst thing that you can do is stop and dither. So my advice is just go for it. By the end of our 3 days in Hanoi, we were all confident in crossing the road!
The best things to do in Hanoi
The Vietnamese capital has a captivating hold – even though we packed a lot into our three days there, I would have been more than happy to continue mooching around Hanoi’s Old Quarter and getting lost through the interconnecting alleys and streets, sitting in cafés and watching the world go by with a Vietnamese coffee in hand.
And while this Hanoi itinerary includes all the stops and experiences that we enjoyed with our two kids, it’s perfect for any first-time visitors – whether you’re travelling solo, as a couple or with a group of friends.
Is three days in Hanoi enough?
While there is a lot to see and do in Hanoi, three days is plenty, particularly if, like us, you’re moving south towards Ninh Binh, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh city – or in the other direction, towards north Vietnam. We managed to pack a lot of Hanoi sights in, explore at our own pace and find some time to also relax in cafes and at our hotels. If, like us, you’re travelling to Hanoi with kids, then we tried to have as much downtime as possible, too. So my suggestions below follow exactly what we managed to fit in during our time in Hanoi.
So if you’re short on time, this is my ultimate Hanoi itinerary – read on for what to do in Hanoi for 3 days. Pick and choose the experiences as you like, or follow exactly.
The perfect 3-day Hanoi itinerary
Day 1
Start your day with an egg coffee
Your initial reaction to egg and coffee may be ‘yuck..’, but let me tell you, it’s a Hanoi stalwart and very popular for good reason. Vietnamese egg coffee (Cà phê trứng) is sweet, creamy and delicious, very much like my favourite dessert – tiramisu – in a glass! Made from egg yolks, condensed milk and espresso, egg coffee was created in Cafe Giang in Hanoi. There are literally hundreds of coffee shops where you can grab one, but if you want to go to the original birthplace of Cafe Giang, go super early (around 7am) to avoid all the crowds.
Cafe Giang, 39 P. Nguyễn Hữu Huân, Lý Thái Tổ, Hoàn Kiếm
Cross the bridge to Ngoc Son Temple
Close to the Old Quarter, head to the north of Hoan Kiem Lake, and you’ll spot the red ornate Huc Bridge. Cross over to Jade Island to reach Ngoc Son Temple. It’s here that you might be lucky enough (as we did) to spot turtles nesting in and amongst the tree roots, and learn about this famous temple dedicated to three key figures in Vietnamese history – General Tran Hung Dao, patron saint of physicians, Lo To, and scholar Van Xuong. From the Pen Tower to the preserved giant turtles that once lived in the lake, spend some time escaping the noise and bustle of the city.
Tickets can be bought at the kiosk before crossing the bridge. P. Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm
Wander around Hoan Kiem Lake
Floating in the centre of Hoan Kiem Lake is a tiny verdant green island, home to Turtle Tower (thap rua). It’s a focal point and full of legend. In the 15th century, Emperor Le Loi was sent a magical sword from the gods, which he used to drive Chinese invaders from Vietnam. Once the war was over, a giant turtle returned the sword to the depths of the lake to its owners. Ho Hoan Kiem means Lake of the Restored Sword.
Take a stroll around to admire the views, watch locals doing tai-chi or practising their dancing, and see how many pretty stone gateways you might come across – they just seem to appear! From shopping streets and cafes at the south end, benches and public spaces, the lake is a hive of Hanoi action.
During the weekends, the roads around Hoan Kiem Lake are closed and are full of food and market stalls, street performers and games. The kids even got to ride motorised mini-cars along the pavements. It’s lively, full of people and a great way to mix with tourists and locals alike.
Marvel at St Joseph’s Cathedral
From Hoan Kiem Lake, you can take a left at Hang Gai Street and keep going until you see Ly Quoc Su Street on the left. You’ll soon see the impressive twin bell towers of St Joseph’s Cathedral – the oldest church in Hanoi. Built in 1886 by the French colonial government, its Neo-Gothic design was inspired by Paris’ Notre Dame. Surviving two wars, this architectural masterpiece now holds regular services.
Stop for a Banh mi lunch
If you love sandwiches, then you’re going to enjoy eating banh mi. Great for snacks or a light lunch, a Hanoi banh mi is a Vietnamese sandwich made from beautifully crusty baguettes with soft centres, filled with an assortment of delicious fillings. Most popular are chicken, char siu pork and pate with picked vegetables and carrots and lots of coriander. Cheap, filling and tasty, we ate our fair share during our time in Vietnam.
And one of the most popular places to get a banh mi is right around the corner from St Joseph’s Cathedral on Lý Quốc Sư. Head to Bánh mì Mama, a small, unassuming shop. Yes, you’ll have to wait in line for around 15-20 minutes, but it’s well worth the wait.
Step back in time at Hoa Lo prison
While the site of a former prison might not spring to mind as a popular attraction, Hoa Lo is well worth your time, particularly if you’re travelling to Hanoi with kids. Most of Hoa Loa – dubbed the Hanoi Hilton – was demolished in the 1990s, but some of the original buildings remain. A lot of the exhibits are morbidly gruesome, including a guillotine – and descriptions of how prisoners were purposely kept upright in shackles. We were fascinated by the stories of escape from many prisoners, as well as entering one cell that kept them captive.
Hoa Lo prison, 1 P. Hoả Lò, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm
Slurp pho
Much like banh mi, you can’t come to Vietnam and not enjoy a few bowls of pho. This steaming, fragrant noodle soup is the ultimate comfort food. Whether you go for beef (pho bo) or chicken (pho ga), every bowl is delicious. I had it pretty much every day! One of our favourites was at Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su. Don’t be put off by the queue outside (it is popular) — it moves quickly, and the pho is worth the wait. It’s also a great place to sit elbow-to-elbow with locals and other tourists. We also couldn’t believe how cheap a family meal was, including drinks. We paid around £12 for four of us.
Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su, 10 P. Lý Quốc Sư, Hàng Trống, Hoàn Kiếm
Shop at the night market
The market in the Old Quarter comes to life at night. From around 7pm on Fridays to Sundays, several streets are closed to traffic and transformed into a buzzing corridor of light, sound, and energy. Here you’ll find stalls selling everything from souvenirs and trinkets to clothes, shoes and toys. There’s food galore, too – sizzling skewers and sausages, pancakes, and grilled corn on the cob. We let the boys pick out a few bits with their own money, and it became one of their favourite evenings in Hanoi.
Day 2
Browse Hanoi’s Old Quarter
Lose yourself in the maze of narrow streets that make up the Old Quarter. You don’t need to plan a route, just set off and go and see where you end up. Each street was traditionally dedicated to a particular trade – from silver to silk – and while that’s evolved over time, you’ll still find clusters of shops selling everything from bamboo ladders to trendy trainers. It’s chaotic, colourful and endlessly fascinating. Stop into a café or pick up some souvenirs in one of the many tiny stores that spill out onto the pavement. Don’t forget to look up – there’s some beautiful ancient architecture above the shopfronts.
Head to Hanoi’s opera house
Just a short walk from the Old Quarter, Hanoi’s French colonial influence is on full display at the Hanoi Opera House. Completed in 1911, it’s modelled after the Palais Garnier in Paris and stands proud amongst the traffic and busy streets. While most shows are in Vietnamese, check the schedule — sometimes you’ll find ballets, classical concerts or cultural performances that are well worth booking. Even if you don’t catch a show, it’s worth admiring from the outside or popping inside for a quick look if the doors are open.
Hanoi Opera House, 1 Tràng Tiền, Phan Chu Trinh, Hoàn Kiếm
Be peaceful at Tran Quoc Pagoda
Head to Hanoi’s West Lake, and here you’ll discover a peaceful escape from the chaos. Tran Quoc Pagoda is the oldest Buddhist temple in the city, dating back over 1,500 years. The slender tower and its surrounding gardens are picture-perfect, especially in the early morning or at sunset. The garden, including the sacred Bodhi tree and its heart-shaped leaves, is a lovely spot to wander.
Tip – When you get to the entrance of Tran Quoc, women selling scarves will block your way and insist that you need to buy something if you have bare shoulders. Ignore them, as you can enter the walkway without having to buy anything and at least view the temple without going into the complex. Bear in mind, you do need to cover bare skin though, if going inside.
Tran Quoc Pagoda, Đ. Thanh Niên, Yên Phụ, Tây Hồ, Hà Nộ
Take a street food tour
One of the absolute highlights of our Hanoi itinerary. We booked an evening street food tour, where our local guide, the brilliant Sean, led us through the twisting alleys of the Old Quarter, stopping at places we’d never have found on our own. We ate delicious street food, from crispy spring rolls to steaming bowls of bun cha (grilled pork with lettuce, noodles and dipping sauce), every dish was a hit. Sean gave us the history and background behind each one, and he engaged with our boys – who adored him. Highly recommend doing this as you also get to meet the locals around your travels.
We booked our food tour with Get Your Guide and added the extra element of Train Street (below).
Feel the whoosh in Train Street
Hanoi Train Street is an unashamedly touristy attraction. But if you know this, and go with the right expectations, it’s amazing. We loved it! Tightly packed between residential buildings, a working train track runs just inches from the doorsteps. At certain times of day, a train barrels through with a horn blast and a rush of wind – while tourists press themselves against walls. Is it dangerous? Yes, if you’re stupid enough to not tuck your limbs in. But with danger comes excitement.
We were lucky. Sean, our street food guide, had checked the timetables and he was able to easily secure us front row seats, and we got to watch the train whizz past us not once, but twice, going in different directions! We also took away four keepsakes. The boys placed four Hanoi beer caps on the tracks, which were flattened by the wheels, and we got to take them home as mementoes.
Note: Train Street has faced several closures due to safety concerns. Never stand on the tracks as the train approaches, and follow all safety instructions from cafe owners. The Le Duan section (Alley 224) offers a quieter alternative with currently fewer restrictions if you can’t get to this section.
Tip: Book a Train Street place with your street food tour, and get to experience both in one trip.
Day 3
Wander the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Imperial Citadel offers a glimpse into Hanoi’s rich royal past. The vast complex includes ancient stone gates, archaeological digs that have unearthed relics from several dynasties, and even a secret underground wartime command bunker. We loved climbing the steps to the watch tower for a panoramic view across the site. The kids enjoyed roaming the open spaces and running through the impressive Doan Mon, named after one of the gates in Beijing’s Forbidden City.
Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, 19c Hoàng Diệu, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội
See the Temple of Literature
Founded in 1070 and dedicated to Confucius, the Temple of Literature was Vietnam’s first national university. Stroll through the landscaped gardens, and admire the courtyards with ponds, pagodas and ancient stone slabs that list the names of past graduates. It’s a lovely spot and one of the finest examples of traditional Vietnamese architecture.
P Quoc Tu Giam
Pay your respects at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Silently shuffling past the guarded glass box containing the embalmed body of President Ho Chi Minh was a surreal, strange and slightly morbid experience. However, it was an experience nonetheless. Lines are long, and complete silence is expected, as well as dressing modestly. While this isn’t for everyone, it does illustrate the deep respect the leader still commands from the Vietnamese. Expect the mausoleum to be closed from September-November while the body is maintained.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, 1 Hùng Vương, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội
Get a foot and leg massage
After all that walking, it’s only right to treat yourself to a foot and leg massage. You’ll be able to find massage spas on every street corner in Hanoi and the choice is endless, plus very affordable (around £5-8) for 30 minutes or more. Sit down, relax and enjoy, your tired feet will thank you for it.
Enjoy a traditional water puppet show
This is one of those experiences that’s unique to Vietnam — and absolutely worth adding to your Hanoi itinerary, especially if you’re travelling with kids. Water puppetry dates back over a thousand years to the rice paddies of northern Vietnam, where farmers would perform using wooden puppets over flooded fields. We went to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, right by Hoan Kiem Lake. The show was in Vietnamese, but that didn’t matter. Expect dragons, ducks, farmers, and a fair bit of splashing. Shows last around 45 minutes, tickets are inexpensive, and it’s a fun, cultural way to wind down after a busy day exploring. Be sure to book in advance (or ask your hotel to do so) as performances can sell out, especially on weekends.
Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, 57B P. Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm
Grab a pizza at Pizza 4PS
After days of pho noodles, rice and street food, sometimes you just crave a little taste of home. And Pizza 4P (in the Old Quarter and close to Hoan Kiem Lake) hits the spot. This Japanese Italian fusion chain was recommended to us and we’re so glad we went. Their burrata and house-made mozzarella are incredible, and the menu is full of creative, flavour-packed combinations – including chicken tikka pizza. Great service, great atmosphere — a nice treat to round off our Hanoi stay. You must book in advance, though, otherwise it’s tough getting a table.
Pizza 4PS, 11B Bao Khanh Alley, Hang Trong ward, Hoan Kiem
Hanoi FAQs
When is the best time to go to Hanoi?
The best time to visit Hanoi is during the spring (March to April) or autumn (October to November), when temperatures are milder and humidity is lower. Summers can be hot and humid, while winters are cool and occasionally misty. We visited in April – and while it was hot and humid in Hanoi, there were a lot of grey skies and heavy clouds.
Where to stay
Most travellers opt to stay in the Old Quarter. Not only do you have hundreds of accommodation options to choose from, but you’ll also be close to all the action. And able to walk to most attractions. Depending on your budget, you can choose from hostels to premium hotels and everything in between. We stayed in two fabulous hotels, Hotel Tirant and GM Premium – both with rooftop pools and bars, and centrally located to everything in the Old Quarter. In Hotel Tirant, we even had a deluxe family suite, which was great for a family of four.
How to get around Hanoi easily
If you’re staying in the Old Quarter, it’s easy to reach a lot of the attractions on foot. For those sights that are a little further away, then Grab taxis (the Asian version of Uber) is cheap and really efficient. Simply download the app and order your Grab taxi. Fares are very affordable, and we always managed to get a cab when we needed one.
Are there debit and credit card charges?
Cash is the preferred method of payment in Hanoi (and indeed around Vietnam). However, sometimes for larger transactions it isn’t always feasible to pay with cash. I was always charged around 3% surcharge fee to use a credit card or debit card in Hanoi. ATMs can be found almost on every street corner in Hanoi, so there’s no need to withdraw large sums at a time.
Is tipping expected in Hanoi?
Tipping isn’t customary in Hanoi, but it’s still welcome. We tipped our street food guide for such a great night out, while on our Bai Tui Long Bay cruise in Halong Bay, we wanted to tip the crew of our ship and the guide for their hard work and warm welcome.
Where to book a Halong Bay boat trip?
There are hundreds of companies offering Halong Bay boat trips, and it can feel totally overwhelming trying to choose the right one, especially when you want something family-friendly, reliable, and not packed to the brim with tourists. We booked ours through Indochina Junk, which included luxury transfers from Hanoi, meals, kayaking, and all activities.
If you’re after something a bit quieter and less touristy, consider Bai Tu Long Bay, just next to Halong Bay. It has the same jaw-dropping limestone karsts, but far fewer boats. We did a 3-day, 2-night cruise, and it was a real highlight of our Vietnam trip.
You can book online in advance through sites like Get Your Guide, or directly via cruise company websites — but it’s also possible to book once you’re in Hanoi through a reputable travel agent. Most hotels can help arrange this, too. Just make sure to read reviews carefully and avoid anything suspiciously cheap.