Last Updated on 03/09/2025 by Ting Dalton
I don’t have many travel regrets – after all life is too short and the world is too wide. However, when I was planning our family adventure to Vietnam, the one thing that I insisted we do as part of our 14-day itinerary was to sail around the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay.
Several decades ago, when I was backpacking around this vast country, I chose (stupidly) not to see the shimmering emerald waters surrounding thousands of towering limestone islands, but this time – I wanted to do it right. Enter Indochina Junk.
A Halong Bay alternative
There are hundreds of companies you can choose from – but if you’re looking for a company that supports the welfare and communities of Halong Bay, as well as promoting responsible travel in the area, then Indochina Junk is a good choice. And, while you can choose many types of Halong Bay cruises – from a day cruise or overnight cruises – we decided on an alternative to Halong Bay and chose a Bai Tu Long cruise instead, hoping for more of an authentic experience.
If you’re considering a Halong Bay cruise and want to enjoy the natural wonders and local culture, then read on to find out more why you should choose a Halong Bay alternative and sail to Bai Tu Long Bay instead.
Where is Bai Tu Long Bay?
If you’ve been planning a Vietnamese adventure, then no doubt you’d have seen the endless images of Halong Bay – thousands of green-topped islands and islets scattered like jewels across jade waters. It is arguably one of the most visited destinations in Vietnam. And for good reason. These natural wonders are jaw-droppingly beautiful. But it also attracts over 2.5 million visitors per year, meaning you can expect hundreds of ships and boats in the area.
Bai Tu Long Bay is around 30km east of the main Halong Bay islands. Their limestone karsts are just as stunning, but here’s why they’re a must-see and the perfect Halong Bay alternative. Not only are they much less frequented by tourists and more off the beaten track, you’ll also get to enjoy unique experiences, including meeting local communities.
Why sail to Bai Tu Long?
Because Indochina Junk is the first company to have been granted special permission from the Vietnamese government to take people to Bai Tu Long Bay, their itineraries are rather special. Only a small handful of companies have this license, so it means you will get to see lesser-explored areas around Halong Bay. If you choose to do the same three-day, two night cruise as we did, know that while a lot of cruises head back to port after one night on their second day, you’ll get to sail directly to Bai Tu Long Bay after the first night, and see nature reserves and pristine beaches of the Cong Dam area, as well as Thien Canh Son cave.
There are far fewer vessels, and it’s far less crowded. When we went kayaking around Cong Do Nature Reserve, our ship was the only one in the bay – and we were the only people in the water. It was surreal and magical – and we felt very lucky to not have to share the experience with other people (other than those from our ship).
What cruise package to choose from?
Indochina Junk have several luxury cruises to choose from, but we decided to go with their three day, two night cruise to make sure we got to see the best of the area. With a fleet of nine ships, including traditional wooden boats, they offer anything from an overnight cruise all the way up to three nights.
Do they pick you up from your hotel?
You’ll most likely be staying in Hanoi before your Halong Bay cruise. We were contacted by Indochina Junk the day before to let us know what our pick-up time was and while we were expecting a shuttle bus, we were pleasantly surprised to be collected in a super luxe van. From bottles of water, free wifi, comfy electric leather seats and USB charging ports, our two-and-a-half-hour journey to Halong International Cruise Port was comfortable and luxurious. It was a great start (and end) to our trip.
What is it like onboard the ship?
We chose to sail on the Dragon Legend Cruise, which has 24 luxury cabins. They all have modern facilities, including air conditioning and ensuite private bathrooms (the bath’s location is unique with floor-to-ceiling windows for you to soak and look out across the bay). As a family of four, we had interconnecting rooms, so the boys shared their own, albeit smaller, double.
The ship’s communal areas consist of a generously sized sundeck with plenty of sun loungers, as well as a plunge pool (which was very cold!). All this means there’s lots of space to sit and enjoy the surrounding views. Meanwhile, there’s plenty of room in the dining and bar area, and at no point did we feel like there were too many people, even while we were eating meals.
During the trip, our evening meals were taken on the outside deck. On our last night, the crew surprised us by hanging an assortment of colourful paper lanterns – it was very pretty – and made our final meal on board very special.
What is the food like?
The food on board Dragon Legend was exceptional. For lunch and dinner, we were served up to seven courses – from freshly caught king prawns and seabass to seasonal stir-fried vegetables and meat dishes. Each one was delicious, and all were cooked with Vietnamese and Chinese flavours. Many of the dishes reminded me of my parents’ cooking, which is probably why I enjoyed them all. Desserts usually consisted of fresh fruit including sliced watermelon. Breakfast was a buffet selection, but you could also get eggs to order, as well as steaming bowls of pho.
The talented chefs pushed the boat out (pun intended) when we had a private beach BBQ for lunch on our second day in Bai Tu Long. Not only did they bring all the food over from the main ship, but grilled tender meat including chicken wings and pork ribs. It was divine.
Meanwhile, they also catered to my younger son’s food allergies and fussy whims. Before each meal, they would check with me what he would like, and freshly prepare him something to eat. He was happy as Larry getting plain noodles with chicken or beef – as well as French fries! Nothing was too much trouble for them – and that really took the stress out of meal times for us. I noticed the staff did this for all passengers who had special food requests.
While they don’t serve snacks in between meals, you can buy them at the reception area, including crisps. With so much served at each meal, the kids didn’t feel hungry until it was time to eat – so having snacks wasn’t an issue for us.
What are the activities like?
While there is some free time on board to relax on the sun deck and admire the stunning views, there are early morning starts and a full schedule of activities. From outdoor activities, including kayaking and squid fishing, to exploring caves and beaches, we wanted to make the most of the cruise to Bai Tu Long. So we did them all. You can even choose to see a water puppet show on the way back to Hanoi.
For me, it was the kayaking that was a highlight. We got to do it twice over two consecutive days. Now, I’m not an experienced rower, but the waters were so calm around Bai Tu Long that it was easy – even for me – to kayak around the limestone islands and peek into caves. And what an experience it was – I will cherish those memories forever.
A close second was our visit to Vung Vieng fishing village, one of four floating villages still existing in the Quang Ninh province. Here, you’ll get a brief glimpse of fishing life, where the fishermen live, and learn about how they farm cultured pearls. The surroundings amongst the limestone karsts are spectacular. And while they try and sell you the pearls (of course they do), we still enjoyed our time there.
Is this Bai Tu Long Bay cruise suitable for families?
Absolutely. What was great for our boys was that there were other families on board, and this meant they made some new friends. During our trip, there was an even mix of families, couples and groups of friends. Everyone was welcoming, and we got to chat to many of our fellow passengers throughout the cruise. However, if you want to keep to yourselves to yourselves, that’s okay, too. The point I’m making is that all are welcome on board, even little people.
Final thoughts
Did this Halong Bay alternative live up to expectations? Hand on heart – this was one of the top highlights of our family trip to Vietnam. Not only did I finally get to realise a travel dream, but I had many pinch-me moments. Drinking a perfectly made G&T as we sailed past endless islands. Kayaking in crystal emerald waters, where it was so peaceful, I could have heard a pin drop. Trying my hand at squid fishing with the boys at night. So many moments that will stay with me forever.
Perhaps one of the stories that really left a mark on me was when our guide revealed that after a deadly hurricane hit a few years ago, many local people had their homes and businesses destroyed, while the waters around Bai Tu Long and Halong were strewn with debris and rubbish. While these communities tried to rebuild their homes and their livelihoods, all cruises were suspended in the area. However, the crews and teams of Indochina Junk spent their time helping the local fishing villages get back on their feet, and assisted in the huge clean-up operation. This sense of camaraderie and preserving the area’s natural beauty, as well as supporting the local community, is illustrated perfectly in the sense of pride the crew had while looking after us on board our Bai Tu Long cruise.
From the warm welcome and the attentive crew, incredible picture-perfect scenery, to the restaurant-worthy meals and immersive activities, our Bai Tu Long Bay cruise will always remain one of the best experiences of our Vietnam trip. If you can, do it. And don’t be silly like me and skip it. You might not get another chance…
Need to know on this Halong bay alternative cruise
When is the best time to visit Bai Tu Long?
You can travel to Bai Tu Long all year round; spring is pleasant, drier and cooler – however, there is a chance of a spot of rain. From June to August, the summer temperatures rise rapidly, and while it’s great for water sports, the heat and humidity are high. Autumn, from September to November, is an ideal time to visit, when temperatures cool, and there are fewer crowds. Winter is changeable, winds are high, and it’s a lot cooler. Great for hiking, but not so much for anything in the water.
What is the dress code?
No dress code at all – comfortable clothing and shoes are recommended. And depending on the season you go, make sure to have some warmer clothes for the evening when it can turn cooler.
​Will food allergies be catered for?
Yes, at the time of booking, you will be asked for these details and any food requests. While on board the ship, we were consulted before each meal to make sure the chefs prepared food correctly.
Do you have to do all the activities?
Not at all. If you’re not up for any of the activities listed in the schedule, you are more than welcome to stay on board the ship and relax. You can choose to do as much or as little as you like.
Are drinks included in the price?
Drinks are not included in the price. Alcohol, including beer, wine and cocktails, costs extra. Local beers cost around 45,000 dong (just over a £1) while wine was more expensive, around £20 for a bottle of imported wine.
Is tipping expected?
No, tipping isn’t expected. However, at the end of the cruise, the crew and guides leave a box out for any tips you wish to offer.
How much is this cruise for a family of four?
Our Bai Tu Long Bay cruise with Indochina Junk cost £600 for a three-day, two-night cruise on Dragon Legend, including all transfers, meals, two adjoining cabins, and all activities.