There’s a particular kind of magic to returning to Paris. Not the first-time rush of ticking off every sight in the French capital and cramming every monument into three breathless days, but the slower, quieter version. The version where you wander with half a plan, stop whenever something catches your eye, and do what Parisians do best – eat, drink, and watch the world go by.
I call it mooching. And after visiting Paris many times over the years – mostly with kids in tow – my most recent trip, just the two of us for our wedding anniversary, reminded me that mooching is the most romantic thing you can do in the city of light.
Paris is often called the most romantic city in the world, and it’s hard to argue. But the romance of Paris isn’t really about ticking off a list of sights. It’s about lingering. While this guide covers some of the best romantic things to do in Paris, from sunset views to candlelit dinners, the thread running through all of it is this: slow down. Paris rewards you for it. Plus, with warm, welcoming people (don’t believe the stereotypes that Parisians are rude – I’ve never encountered it!) – it’s no wonder visitors return again and again.
Quick answer: The best romantic things to do in Paris
For wandering: The covered passages (Passage des Panoramas and Passage Jouffroy), Canal Saint-Martin, Jardin du Luxembourg
For eating: Les Enfants Rouges (French-Japanese fusion in the Marais), Le Brébant (classic brasserie on the Grands Boulevards), Linette (bistro near the Eiffel Tower), Loui’s Corner (long lunches by the canal), Le Valentin (pastries in Passage Jouffroy)
For a view: Trocadéro at sunset, Galeries Lafayette rooftop terrace
For staying: Hôtel Adèle & Jules, Cité Rougemont (9th arrondissement)
Why Paris without kids is a completely different city
I should say this upfront. We love travelling with our children, and our Paris with kids guide covers everything you need for a brilliant family trip. But Paris without kids? Night and day.
Without anyone complaining they’re tired, hungry, or bored (sometimes all three at once), we could actually stroll and take in our surroundings. We noticed details we’d walked straight past before – the ironwork on balconies, the way the light falls between Haussmann buildings in late afternoon, the sound of someone practising piano through an open window.
We lingered over long lunches. We sat in the sun and read our books. We stayed out past 10pm without a babysitter-shaped ticking clock. If you’re planning a romantic weekend in Paris, even if you’ve been before, going as a couple changes everything.
The art of mooching through Paris
Mooching is my favourite way to explore any city, but Paris was made for it. The idea is simple: have a loose direction, but let yourself be pulled off course. Stop for coffee when you spot a terrace with good people-watching. Duck into a shop that catches your eye. Find a quiet moment on a bench and do absolutely nothing for twenty minutes.
The best way to experience the romantic streets of Paris is without a fixed itinerary. Our best days followed this pattern – wandering the streets of Paris with no agenda, discovering things we’d never have found otherwise – and it’s worth building your romantic weekend in Paris around the same idea. Below are the places and experiences that made this trip special, but treat them as suggestions rather than a checklist.
Wander Rue des Petits Carreaux
One street I’d add to your wandering list is Rue des Petits Carreaux, the northern stretch of the Rue Montorgueil market street in the 2nd arrondissement. It’s one of my favourite streets in Paris – narrow, pedestrianised, and packed with fromageries, boulangeries, charcuterie shops, and bistros spilling onto the pavement.
The cheese shops alone are worth a detour (the fromagerie at number 8 has plates of freshly sliced cheese you can take away for a picnic). We wandered past crates of fruit, trays of oysters on ice, and the warm smell of bread from Eric Kayser on the corner (you have to try it!), and somehow ended up stopping for a glass of wine at one of the terrace bars. If you’re stuck on where to eat, walk the length of the street – you’ll find somewhere before you reach the end.
Hang out in covered passages
If you’ve never wandered the covered passages of Paris, start here. Passage des Panoramas is the oldest in the city, dating back to 1799, and it connects to Passage Jouffroy just across Boulevard Montmartre. Together, they make for a perfect morning of browsing.
We spent a couple of hours drifting between the two, stopping to look at antique prints, old stamps, and small galleries selling work by local artists, all tucked between bistros. The glass ceilings and wrought-iron signs give everything a slightly timeless feel – like stepping into a version of Paris that hasn’t changed in 200 years. We stopped for coffee and pastries at Le Valentin, a salon de thé that’s been part of Passage Jouffroy for over 20 years, and watched other visitors drift past. (More on Le Valentin’s pastries in the restaurant section below – they deserve their own mention.)
It’s the kind of thing that doesn’t make it onto most romantic Paris lists, but there’s something lovely about exploring these passages together, with no agenda and no rush. Passage des Panoramas is in the 2nd arrondissement, and Passage Jouffroy is in the 9th. Both are free to wander and open daily.
Browse Galeries Lafayette (not just for shopping)
I know what you’re thinking – a department store isn’t romantic. But hear me out.
We wandered into Galeries Lafayette with no intention of buying anything and ended up having one of the nicest afternoons of the trip. The building itself is worth visiting for the Art Nouveau dome alone – ornate stained glass and gilded balconies rising above you from the ground floor.
We browsed the designer floors (window shopping at its finest), then found The Wine Gate, a wine bar tucked under the dome. We sat with a glass of champagne and admired the current art installation overhead – during our visit, a contemporary exhibition from Centre Pompidou-Metz called For Eternity had taken over the dome space, staircases, and terrace. It was unexpected and beautiful.
After that, we headed to the rooftop terrace. It’s free to visit and offers some of the best views in Paris – the Eiffel Tower, Sacré-Cœur, and the Opéra Garnier are all visible. Come in the late afternoon if you can, when the light starts to soften.
Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, 40 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th arrondissement. Open Monday to Saturday, 9:30am–8:30pm. Sunday 11am–8pm. Rooftop terrace opens at 9:30am (weather permitting).
A romantic stroll along Canal Saint-Martin
The Canal Saint-Martin has a completely different energy from the river Seine and central Paris. It’s quieter, younger, and more relaxed – iron footbridges over still water, plane trees lining the banks, and locals stretched out on the quayside with books and picnics.
We walked the length of the canal, stopping by the water to sit in the sun with a coffee. There’s something about being near water that slows everything down, and on a warm day, it felt like we could have been in a different city entirely.
For lunch, we found Loui’s Corner on Rue Bichat, a brasserie with a sunny corner terrace just off the canal. We ordered far too much food and stayed for what turned into a very long, very romantic lunch. It’s not fine dining – it’s generous bistro cooking, cocktails, and good people-watching from the terrace. A beautiful place for a lazy afternoon, and exactly what a romantic day in Paris should be.
Loui’s Corner, 49 Rue Bichat, 10th arrondissement. Open daily from 8am to 1am.
Linger in the Jardin du Luxembourg
The Jardin du Luxembourg – or Luxembourg Gardens, as it’s known in English – is one of the most beautiful parks in Paris, and the perfect place for couples. This green space fans out from the Palais du Luxembourg with wide gravel paths, fountains, and neat rows of trees. But the best part? The green metal chairs are scattered everywhere – and some even have a reclining back.
We commandeered two chairs near the central fountain, picked up a picnic lunch from a nearby boulangerie – baguettes, cheese, something sweet – and spent a couple of hours reading, eating, and soaking up the sun. Children sailed toy boats on the fountain. Joggers looped the perimeter. We didn’t move for ages.
If you want a more structured visit, the gardens also have a beautiful Medici Fountain (tucked away on the eastern side, very romantic), an orchard, and a small apiary. But of all the romantic things to do in Paris, the chairs-and-a-book approach is hard to beat.
Jardin du Luxembourg, 6th arrondissement. Free entry. Open daily from 7:30am (hours vary seasonally – check before you go).
Watch the sunset from Trocadéro
There are plenty of places to watch the sunset in Paris, but Trocadéro remains one of the best – and one of the most romantic spots in the city. Yes, it’s touristy, but for good reason. The view of the Eiffel Tower from the esplanade is one of those sights that stops you in your tracks, no matter how many times you’ve seen it.
We arrived about forty minutes before sunset and found a spot on the plaza. As the light changed, the tower went from grey steel to warm gold to silhouette, and when the lights came on, the whole esplanade seemed to hold its breath for a second. It’s a shared moment – you’re surrounded by other couples and families all watching the same thing – and it’s rather lovely.
If the plaza is packed, walk down to the Jardins du Trocadéro below for a slightly quieter vantage point. The view is just as good, and you’ll have more space. Either way, this is one of the most romantic views in Paris.
Trocadéro, 16th arrondissement. Nearest métro: Trocadéro (lines 6 and 9). Best at sunset – check times for the date of your visit.
Rooftop bars with a view
If you want to take the Eiffel Tower views up a level (literally), book a table at a rooftop bar. We spent an hour at the Eylau Paris Rooftop at the Canopy by Hilton, a few minutes’ walk from Trocadéro, and it was one of the highlights of the trip. The terrace is spacious and relaxed – deckchairs, parasols, a laid-back crowd – and the Eiffel Tower rises right in front of you above the rooftops. We ordered a bottle of cold rosé and a sharing plate of snacks, and watched the light change over the city. It’s open to non-guests, and you can book in advance, which I’d recommend, especially in the warmer months.
Eylau Paris Rooftop, 16 Avenue d’Eylau, 16th arrondissement. Open daily from midday to 11:30pm.
A few other rooftop spots worth knowing about. Les Ombres, on the roof of the Musée du Quai Branly in the 7th, has one of the closest Eiffel Tower views in Paris – the tower practically fills the sky above you. It’s more of a restaurant than a bar (there’s a prix fixe lunch menu from around €58), but you can also visit just for drinks on the terrace.
For something more central, the rooftop at Hôtel Dame des Arts in the 6th (called Pimpam) has 360-degree views taking in the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, and the rooftops of the Left Bank – great for sunset drinks with Italian-inspired small plates. And if you’re already at Galeries Lafayette (see above), the Créatures rooftop bar on the same building serves cocktails and pizzas with views over the Opéra Garnier and beyond. It opens seasonally, so check ahead.
Where to eat: Our favourite romantic restaurants in Paris
Eating well is one of the most romantic things to do in Paris, and we ate very well on this trip. Whether you’re after intimate settings for a date night or a long, lazy lunch in the sun, Paris delivers. Here’s where we’d send you for delicious food and a memorable evening.
Les Enfants Rouges – the best meal of the trip
This was the standout. Les Enfants Rouges is a small bistro tucked behind the Marché des Enfants-Rouges in the Marais, run by Japanese chef Daï Shinozuka. The cooking is French-Japanese fusion – classic bistro techniques with Japanese precision and ingredients. It’s recognised in the Michelin Guide, and the quality of every dish reflects that.
We had the tasting menu, and each course was beautifully balanced – delicate, surprising, and full of flavour without being fussy. But what made the evening was the warmth of the place. It’s a family-run restaurant, and when the staff and the chef came out to wish us a happy anniversary (we were celebrating 17 years married), it turned a great dinner into something we’ll remember for a long time.
Book ahead – it’s small and popular for good reason.
Les Enfants Rouges, 9 Rue de Beauce, 3rd arrondissement. Open Monday and Thursday to Sunday for lunch and dinner (Thursday dinner only). Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Set lunch from around €50; tasting menu around €85–90 per person.
Le Brébant – a Grands Boulevards classic
Le Brébant has been part of the Grands Boulevards since 1865, when it was a favourite haunt of Zola, the Goncourt brothers, and the Parisian literary set. These days it’s a good-looking brasserie with a large terrace overlooking the boulevard – the kind of place where you can sit outside with a carafe of wine and watch Paris walk past.
We went for a relaxed dinner after an evening stroll. The menu is classic French brasserie – seafood platters, steak, fish – and the setting does a lot of the heavy lifting. There’s something about eating outside on a warm evening on the Grands Boulevards, with the theatres and passages lit up around you, that feels effortlessly romantic.
Le Brébant, 32 Boulevard Poissonnière, 9th arrondissement. Open daily. Near Grands Boulevards métro.
Linette – our old favourite near the Eiffel Tower
We’ve been to Linette on every Paris trip and keep coming back. It’s a neighbourhood bistro on Avenue Rapp in the 7th, just a few minutes’ walk from the Eiffel Tower, serving classic French dishes – duck confit, steak tartare, escargot, crème brûlée. Nothing revolutionary, but everything cooked well and served with that bustling Parisian energy.
The prices are fair for the area (mains around €18–25), the portions are generous, and the staff are super friendly, chatty and welcoming. We tend to go in the evening and walk out to find the Eiffel Tower lit up – which never gets old, no matter how many times you’ve seen it.
Linette, 16 Avenue Rapp, 7th arrondissement. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Loui’s Corner – lazy lunches by Canal Saint-Martin
Already mentioned above, but worth listing here too. Loui’s Corner is brilliant for a relaxed, drawn-out lunch or early evening drinks on the terrace. The menu is generous – brasserie classics with a slightly modern edge – and the vibe is easy-going. We ended up here almost by accident and stayed for hours.
Le Valentin – pastries in the passage
Not every romantic meal needs to be a long dinner. Le Valentin is a salon de thé tucked inside Passage Jouffroy, and it does some of the most beautiful pastries we had on the entire trip – all made on site by a team of five pâtissiers. The kind of place where you sit down meaning to have a quick coffee and end up ordering a second round because the tarts are too good to leave behind. Macarons, mille-feuille, flan pâtissier – everything looked almost too good to eat. Almost.
Le Valentin, 30 Passage Jouffroy, 9th arrondissement. Open daily from around 8:30am (check hours before visiting, as weekend times may differ).
Where to stay for a romantic weekend in Paris
Paris is one of our favourite cities, and over the years we’ve stayed in a few different areas. For a romantic trip, the best place to base yourself is somewhere central but with a neighbourhood feel – away from the tourist crush but within walking distance of the best restaurants and sights.
We stayed at Hôtel Adèle & Jules on Cité Rougemont in the 9th arrondissement, and I’d happily go back. It’s a boutique hotel tucked down a quiet private alleyway, which makes it feel peaceful even though you’re minutes from the Grands Boulevards, the covered passages, and the Opéra Garnier.
The rooms are beautifully designed – bold colours, Parisian prints, comfortable bedding – and small enough to feel intimate rather than corporate. There’s a little bar and lounge area, complimentary afternoon tea, and the staff were consistently helpful with restaurant recommendations and directions. It’s the kind of place that feels like a base for a romantic weekend rather than just somewhere to sleep.
For a full breakdown of the best areas and hotels across the city, have a look at our complete guide to where to stay in Paris.
If it’s your first time in Paris
If this is your first visit, you’ll probably want to fit in some of the bigger sights of Paris alongside the slower mooching. That’s completely fair – there’s a reason these places are famous, and a first trip to the city deserves a bit of everything.
A few suggestions for weaving the classics into a romantic trip. The Seine at dusk is beautiful from any bridge – the Pont des Arts is a favourite for the views – and you don’t need to take a river cruise to appreciate it, though a sunset Seine river cruise is lovely if you fancy one.
Sacré-Cœur is worth the climb for the view, and the narrow streets of Montmartre around Place du Tertre are fun to wander, even with the tourist crowds. You’ll find local artists selling paintings and street vendors offering crêpes at every turn. The Île Saint-Louis is quieter than its neighbour and perfect for a late-afternoon ice cream and stroll. Notre-Dame has reopened after its restoration, and seeing the cathedral up close is more moving than you’d expect.
The Left Bank around Saint-Germain-des-Prés still has some of that literary café culture – grab a sidewalk table at Les Deux Magots or Café de Flore, order something overpriced, and enjoy the people-watching. It’s more about the experience than the coffee.
From there, wander into the Latin Quarter in the 5th arrondissement – the winding streets around the Panthéon and Rue Mouffetard are some of the most romantic in Paris, with local markets, wine bars, and small restaurants tucked around every corner.
If you’re into art, the Musée d’Orsay is more romantic than the Louvre (smaller, less overwhelming, and the Impressionist galleries are stunning). The recently reopened Grand Palais near the Champs-Élysées is worth a cultural visit too, especially if there’s a good exhibition on. For something more tucked away, the Musée de la Vie Romantique in the 9th is a lovely small museum with a garden café – one of the most romantic places in Paris that most visitors miss entirely.
For an evening out, the Moulin Rouge in Montmartre and the Opéra Garnier both offer a different kind of Parisian romance – all velvet, gilding, and spectacle. Music lovers should check what’s on at the Opéra or the Philharmonie. Even a walk up the Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe at night has a certain grandeur to it. And for a truly special dinner, Le Jules Verne on the Eiffel Tower itself is one of the best things you can book in Paris – two-Michelin-starred dining with views that need no introduction.
For a deeper dive into the sights with practical tips, our Paris with kids guide covers most of the main attractions with timings and advice that works for adults too.
Practical tips for a romantic weekend in Paris
Getting around: Paris is a walking city, and most of the best romantic experiences involve wandering on foot. The Métro is cheap and efficient for longer hops – load up a Navigo Easy card or use the Île-de-France Mobilités app for tickets.
Best time to visit: Late spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) are the perfect time for a romantic weekend – warm enough to sit outside, without the summer crowds. We visited in spring and the light was gorgeous.
Eating: Book restaurants in advance, especially small places like Les Enfants Rouges. For casual dining, most brasseries don’t need a reservation at lunch. The most romantic way to eat in Paris is to take your time – expect two-hour dinners and don’t rush them.
Budget: A romantic weekend in Paris doesn’t have to be expensive. Picnic lunches from a boulangerie, free rooftop views, and wandering the passages cost nothing. Save the budget for one or two special dinners.
Frequently asked questions
What are the most romantic things to do in Paris?
The most romantic experiences in Paris tend to be the simplest – watching the sunset over the Eiffel Tower from Trocadéro, lingering over a long dinner in a candlelit bistro, or wandering the covered passages hand in hand. The Jardin du Luxembourg and the banks of Canal Saint-Martin are both lovely for a slow afternoon together.
Is Paris good for a romantic weekend?
Paris is one of the best cities in the world for a romantic weekend or getaway. It’s compact enough to explore on foot, the food scene is exceptional, and the city itself – from the Haussmann architecture to the riverside walks – creates a romantic atmosphere that’s hard to match. Two to three nights is enough for a memorable trip.
Where should couples stay in Paris?
The 9th arrondissement around the Grands Boulevards is a great base – close to the covered passages, Opéra, and major sights without being in the thick of the tourist crowds. Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the Left Bank is classically romantic, while the Marais offers excellent dining and a lively atmosphere. Read our full where to stay in Paris guide for detailed neighbourhood breakdowns.
What is the most romantic area in Paris?
It depends on what you’re after. Montmartre has the cobblestones and the views. The Marais has the best food and late-night bars. Saint-Germain has the literary café culture. For us, the streets around the Grands Boulevards and the covered passages offered the best mix of charm, good restaurants, and a neighbourhood feel that didn’t revolve around tourists.
Is a Seine river cruise worth it for couples?
A sunset Seine cruise is undeniably romantic, with views of Notre-Dame, the Louvre, and the Eiffel Tower from the water. If it’s your first visit, it’s a lovely way to see the city. If you’ve been before, walking along the river at dusk gives you a similar experience for free.
How many days do you need for a romantic trip to Paris?
Two to three nights is ideal for a romantic weekend. That gives you enough time to enjoy a few special meals, explore a couple of neighbourhoods, and have at least one day with no plans at all – which is when Paris is at its best.