Istanbul isn’t one city, and it doesn’t have a single city centre. It’s a collection of neighbourhoods with their own moods, and the gap between them is bigger than any map suggests. Two areas can sit 10 minutes apart and feel like different countries, which is why “where should I …
There is nowhere else on earth quite like Istanbul. Not even close. This is a city that sits across two continents, one foot in Europe, the other in Asia, and you feel that duality everywhere. In the skyline, where Byzantine domes and Ottoman minarets rise together above the Bosphorus. In …
Istanbul doesn’t ease you in. You step outside, and the city is already happening – the smell of simit fresh from a cart, the distant call to prayer competing with taxi horns, the flash of the Bosphorus at the end of every street. It takes about 10 minutes to realise …