Last Updated on 30/04/2025 by Ting Dalton
Realising that our French holiday would be a non-starter at the end of the summer, I did a frantic mad dash online looking at staycations all across the length and breadth of the country. From Cornwall and Devon to the Isle of Wight and Dorset, accommodation options were severely limited or astronomical in price. With UK breaks in high demand, my options began running out rapidly, but with perseverance, I finally found a total gem nestled on the banks of the River Orwell in a small hamlet called Pin Mill in Suffolk.
Why Pin Mill?
Not far from Ipswich, and close to the village of Chelmondiston and on the Shotley peninsula, Pin Mill is not only a designated Conservation Area but part of the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
Pin Mill was also one of author Arthur Ransome’s most favourite spots. Even though he is famous for residing in Coniston Water in the Lake District, the Swallows and Amazons writer based several of his novels at Pin Mill and mentions the real-life Alma Cottage, as well as the Butt and Oyster pub. He lived close by in Levington on the other side of the Orwell and also had his own boats built at the Pin Mill boatyard.
So it’s got a lot going for it. From the main road B1456, blink, and you’ll miss the turning, but as you drive down through a narrow lane, you’ll eventually come to the car park and to magnificent views across the river.
With boats bobbing in the water, a fantastic pub and walking trails, Pin Mill really is a wonderful setting for a Suffolk holiday. From watercolour enthusiasts and hikers to dog walkers and families, Pin Mill can be enjoyed by all. And the best thing? It never felt busy or overcrowded. And just over an hour away to Aldeburgh and Southwold, we had the perfect base to explore the rest of the Suffolk coastline.
Our houseboat stay
Not content with staying just anywhere on a UK break, I was pleased to find quirky accommodation and something different from the norm. We’ve never stayed on a houseboat before, and what made Adelaar even more special was that it was moored in its own section of the river, making it very private. And because it was our own special hideaway, not only was it peaceful (when the kids weren’t arguing), but we had uninterrupted views over the river and beyond. It truly was a place to escape from it all.
Adelaar, which means ‘eagle’ in Dutch, has been lovingly restored by owners Simon and Sheila and has everything you could need onboard for a comfortable stay. Not only does the houseboat have a spacious bathroom with an electric shower and flushing toilet, but a fully-kitted kitchen with a large fridge and cooker (no oven) as well as two bedrooms – one with a bunk bed, which suited the children.
Our favourite part was out on the front deck, and being able to have breakfast overlooking the river with the sun shining made this a really lovely spot to relax in. Meanwhile, at night, you can hear a pin drop, as well as all the sounds of the surrounding wildlife. I would suggest that if you’re not partial to creepy crawlies, then this may not be the place for you – although if you make sure you shut the windows before nightfall, there shouldn’t be too much of a problem.
I would happily return to Adelaar by myself with a few good books for company – it’s a really tranquil setting and with so many scenic walks close by, as well as a great pub within strolling distance, what’s not to love?
If you’d like a video tour of our Airbnb houseboat stay, do check out these highlights over on Instagram, where you can see the boat’s interior.
The Butt and Oyster Pub
This Pin Mill pub is an institution in the area and a good option for a bite to eat. The first mention of it dates all the way back to 1456 and because of its location right by the river, was a popular spot for smugglers and sailors. If you look closely at the photographs on the walls, you’ll find some wonderful images from the past that offer a real sense of its history.
The Butt and Oyster is still just as popular today but is more known for its good food and great atmosphere. For us, it was an ideal spot for dinner and drinks, and only a short stroll from our houseboat. With an extensive menu as well as kids’ meals, including fish and chips, burgers, and an assortment good pub grub dishes, we went several times having made reservations in advance.
For those who want to just sit outside and have a drink, customers can order and pick up without having to go inside. Overall, we were impressed and Monkey is still talking about how much he enjoyed the Eton mess!
This is a popular pub so do make reservations in advance if you want a table.
Pin Mill walks
There are several walking routes around Pin Mill that really show off the stunning expanse of heathland and woodland alongside the riverbank. Part of The National Trust, the Pin Mill walk starts from the car park, past the Butt and Oyster and follows the river to a clifftop path that offers captivating views through the trees down to the River Orwell. (For more on the route click here)
The walk offers an insight into the Stour and Orwell estuaries where you can spot plenty of boats and even abandoned shipwrecks that have become part of the landscape. We enjoyed bird spotting and running through the heathland, as well as discovering a swing rope amongst the trees.
You can even take a pleasant stroll through the Suffolk countryside to Woolverstone Marina – where you’ll find The Loch & Quay restaurant bar to grab a bite to eat.
Things to know about Pin Mill
• The car park for Pin Mill can found at this postcode IP9 1JJ. It is well signposted, but be aware there are only a few spaces – so during peak times you may struggle to find a space.
• For guests staying on Adelaar houseboat, you get your own private space to use throughout the duration of your stay. Plus a luggage trolley is there for use to cart your belongings on the 10-minute walk to the boat. So pack light!
• The tide can come in quite suddenly blocking off the main footpaths, so if this happens, be prepared to get wet feet – or head to the pub to wait it out!
• There are pubic toilets available to use as well as lots of benches dotted around to enjoy the views.