Having spent two weeks in Morrocco’s coastal town of Essaouira on a family holiday, I would wholeheartedly say: ‘Yes!’, Essaouira really is worth visiting.
When I first heard about sun-soaked Essaouira’s laid-back vibe, how the locals are welcoming and friendly, that I would devour delicious food and choose from so many different cuisines, as well as enjoy vast swathes of coastlines I didn’t believe it.
My last foray in Marrakesh didn’t leave a lasting impression. Let’s just say I wouldn’t choose to go back there but my trepidation about returning to Morocco was unfounded.
Is Essaouira worth visiting?
In Essaouira, golden beaches stretch for miles as far as the eye can see. You’ll discover a melting pot of different cultures which sees a combination of Arabic, Jewish and Berber influences sprinkled with lashings of French charm. All of this imbues not only in the tangible things you can see and taste but also in the people you’ll meet. It is unique.
Head to the Essaouira’s medina (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), full of rich history, art galleries, and get lost on purpose in a maze of streets lined with stalls selling all manner of colourful spices, earthenware, rugs and so much more. The food markets are filled with treats from freshly caught seafood to moreish crepes. Locals mix with tourists as they browse shops and produce. From grabbing a mint tea or strong coffee or enjoying a tagine lunch, people watching or just mooching, the medina is the perfect place for all of the above and more…
Follow the imposing ramparts (where Game of Thrones was filmed) along the sea walls and you’ll come to the lively fishing port, where all manner of weird and wonderful creatures are being offered as a catch of the day, and Essaouira’s iconic blue fishing boats bob up and down in the water.
Whether you’re looking for a long weekend in the sunshine, taking a road trip from Marrakech, Agadir or Casablanca – or even spending a good chunk of time there for an extended holiday (like we did), visit Essaouira and fall in love with this Moroccan gem by the sea.
Is Essaouira worth visiting? Read on to find out more reasons why you should choose Essaouira for your next holiday. And for things to do in Essaouira? Check out my post here.
Fantastic weather (all year round)
When is the best time to visit Essaouira? If, like me, you enjoy chasing the sun, then Essaouira’s climate will be a huge draw. It’s mild all year round – even in winter it can be warm – around 19-20°c, so a great option if you’re looking for some winter sunshine. And while it can get misty, and experience some rainfall in winter months (December-February), there really isn’t a bad time of year to go.
Essaouira is known as Africa’s ‘Windy City’. Its location on the Atlantic Ocean means it’s a surfer’s (and kite surfer’s) paradise with strong winds. When we went, it was August – and very warm. And, while it could feel chillier close to the coast on some of Essaouira’s rooftop restaurants, and on Essaouira’s beaches, the wind provided a welcome respite when temperatures hit upwards of 28°c+.
It’s close to the UK
During the high season, you can get direct flights from London Stansted to Essaouira airport twice a week via Ryanair – and it’s only a three and a half hours’ flight time! Far shorter than flying to the Canary Islands or even Greece, you could be feeling the Moroccan sun in no time. If you can’t find direct flights, then you can travel via road – Essaouira to Marrakech is around 2 hours 45 minutes and costs around £50-£80 via taxi (600-1000 MAD). Flights to Marrakech from the UK are more frequent with many airlines servicing the route.
Friendly and welcoming people
If I were to regale you with endless of stories of all the wonderful people we met while we were in Essaouira, we’d be here all day. Before we went, I was told by those who had already been that it was the people who made Essaouira so special. And they weren’t wrong. From the airport staff who helped recover our lost luggage, to the stall owner who brought us over stools in the medina, so the children and I could have a seat while we waited for the other half to have a shave in a barbers, we encountered friendly and welcoming people throughout our stay. We didn’t get hassled, there was no aggression and I am certain you’ll discover the same should you choose to visit Essaouira.
Amazing restaurants and amazing food
Food glorious food. We didn’t have one bad meal in Essaouira. And if you’re after fine dining in elegant restaurants, street food or light bites, a freshly made crepe laden with chocolate sauce or fresh oysters or fish plucked from the sea, Essaouira has it covered. We enjoyed freshly sugared Sfenj (Moroccan doughnuts), seafood, tagines from chicken and olives to meatballs laden in spiced tomato sauce, delicious couscous and vegetables, as well as more Western-inspired food including big fat burgers and authentic Italian pizzas. And while Morocco is a Muslim country, alcohol is served in many restaurants and bars in Essaouira – we enjoyed delicious cocktails by the beach, French wines and beers.
Shopping, shopping, shopping
Shopping in Essaouira is an experience in itself. Head to the Essaouira medina and weave your way through winding alleys and narrow streets lined with shops and stalls. From souvenirs, rugs and trinkets to spices, colourful ceramics, jewellery and woodwork, clothing and shoes, you’ll find it all. Don’t worry about getting lost, it’s pretty easy to find specific landmarks from the city walls, the beach, the harbour, or the lively main square of Moulay Hassan Square. Half the fun is getting a little lost, right? And suppose you’re worried about being hassled by store owners or having to aggressively haggle for goods. In that case, you’ll be pleased to know that shopping in Essaouira is a pleasant experience.
We had some lovely conversations with store owners who were proud of their home and the products they were selling. One of my biggest regrets was not bringing an extra suitcase, as I was seduced by so many of the things on sale! And what if you’re not a shopping fan? It’s still wonderful to soak in the medina’s noises, sights and colour. Plus, there are plenty of food stalls. So you can easily eat your way around the medina, too.
Great accommodation options
We chose to stay in our own villa (Dar Mayssoun) – on the outskirts of town. It suited us perfectly, as not only did we have a little walled oasis with our own pool and lots of space, it was set back enough from the coastline so the wind didn’t bother us. And being so close to the medina, we were able to go in and out when it pleased us.
If you’re only in Essaouira for a few days, then I would suggest staying in the medina itself, so you’re close to the action. From stunning riads, and eclectic and comfortable Airbnbs to several hotels such as Salut Maroc (check out their fantastic rooms) and hostels – there is a wide choice of accommodation in Essaouira to suit all tastes and budgets.
A choice of stunning beaches
From horse riding, quad biking, kite surfing and camel rides – or simply sunbathing, you can do as little or as much as you want on Essaouira’s beaches. Dunes rise up from golden stretches of coastline, while the Atlantic’s sheer force combined with strong winds means they’re perfect for surfers. Essaouira’s main beach is wide and sandy – and full of life – with locals playing beach football and tourists enjoying a stroll. From the promenade to a parade of beach bars and restaurants, there are plenty of spots to enjoy the beach views and gorgeous sunsets.
Head further south, and you’ll discover Diabat – an otherworldy beach that has the ruins of an 18th-century castle (Borj el Baroud) as its centre. Our favourite beach, Sidi Kaouki, a sleepy surfing town has a gorgeous nearly two-mile stretch of beach. One end of the beach is overlooked by the iconic white marabout shrine, while there are several cafes, restaurants and bars to enjoy the views. With the tide in, our children loved climbing over the rock pools and trying to spot marine life.
Essaouira FAQs
What is the currency in Essaouira?
The currency in Essaouira is the Moroccan Dirham. You cannot change any money before you leave the UK, as the Dirham is a closed currency – meaning it is unable to be brought in or out of the country. Not to worry, though, there is a cash machine right by the exit of the airport (close to the car rental kiosks). ATMs typically allow withdrawals of 2000 dirham (around £150-160) per transaction. However, you can make multiple transactions at most banks to withdraw larger amounts if needed.
Luckily, I had several bank cards on me, and was able to withdraw more when my car rental insisted I pay in cash.Â
If you need more cash while you’re there, head into the medina, where you will find several cash machines and banks close to the harbour and Moulay Hassan Square.Â
If like me, you like to use American Express credit card, be aware that many establishments in Essaouira don’t accept it. Visa and MasterCard, however, are taken everywhere.Â
What is the time difference in Essaouira?
Morocco uses GMT+1 year-round, except during Ramadan when clocks temporarily revert to GMT. This means Morocco is one hour ahead of the UK during winter (when the UK is on GMT) and matches UK time during summer (when the UK is on BST). During Ramadan, the time difference varies depending on UK daylight saving – either no difference or one hour behind.
When is the best time to go to Essaouira?
I booked to go to Essaouira for August, believing this would guarantee us the hottest and sunniest weather – however, I didn’t realise August is also Essaouira’s windiest month. While I was a little apprehensive, I needn’t have worried. The temperature was a consistent 28°c plus every day and the wind, while we couldn’t sunbathe on the beach (where the sand would have blasted our skin), it offered welcome relief from the heat.Â
Weather-wise the wettest months are through November-February (but you’re only looking at an average 1.2 inches of rain per month!). The warmest months are typically from May to September, with clear skies and bright sunshine. Even during the winter, Essaouira still receives a fair amount of sunshine.
Do they serve alcohol?
While Morocco is a Muslim country, Essaouira has many restaurants and bars that serve alcohol. Meanwhile, Carre Four, is the only supermarket in Essaouira that sells alcohol, except on Fridays (their day of prayers). You will not be able to purchase alcohol on this day – which is why you might find big queues on a Thursday, like we did!
Don’t expect alcohol to be cheap in Essaouira. Because of import tax, you do pay a premium to drink alcohol in restaurants and bars– and I found a lot of the prices comparable to London prices. Around £30 for a bottle of wine at a good restaurant. The supermarket prices are around £7 for a decent bottle of wine, and around £2.50 for a can of beer.
Be aware, during Ramadan things will operate on a very different schedule, where some shops and restaurants may not open at all, or may open later and close earlier.
What languages are spoken?
Arabic and French are widely spoken in Essaouira, with some English thrown into the mix. We managed to get by very easily with my basic French!
When is the high season in Essaouira?
Like most of Europe, August is Essaouira’s busiest month, with many Moroccans on school holidays. While it was busy in the medina, often around dusk into night, I never found it overwhelming. We made reservations in restaurants that we wanted to dine in which is advisable during the high season. The car parks tended to be full during our stay, however, there are many options if you have a car and we never had a problem finding car parking spaces. Expect to pay around 20 dirhams for several hours of parking.Â
What side of the road do you drive on?
They drive on the right-hand side of the road – like most European countries. It is easy to drive in Essaouira – I found the roads well-signposted and easy to navigate. Even for a nervous abroad driver like me, I didn’t struggle to drive in Essaouira.