Hugging Morocco’s breezy Atlantic coast, the coastal town of Essaouira is a wonderfully laidback alternative to Marrakech. On our summer holiday here, we stayed for 12 days. But we could have easily stayed longer.
What we loved about Essaouira is that you can do as little or as much as you want. If you’re looking for sun, sea and relaxation with a dash of great cuisine and welcoming people, then you’re in for a treat. If you’re not one for lying on the beach or by a pool, there are so many things to do in Essaouira. Beach walks, shopping trips, quad biking, golf, gorging on fresh fish – even learning to cook the perfect Moroccan tagine – you won’t be bored.
If you’re wondering whether Essaouira is worth a trip with the family (or even without), I would wholeheartedly say: ‘yes!’ – and you can learn more about why I think so here. If you’re already convinced, read on for my breakdown of the best things to do in Essaouira…
Learn to surf (and kite surf)
Essaouira sits right next to the Atlantic Ocean, which means near-constant breezes (its nickname is the ‘windy city’) and surfer-friendly waves. If you’re a beginner, you’ll want to head south of the city for your surf lesson, where the swell is a little more predictable (Sidi Kaouki was a favourite of ours). There are plenty of companies that’ll take you to the best places, and provide all the gear and tuition. You can surf in the city centre, but the waves can be a little trickier for those just learning – especially in the summer high season, when the sea breezes mingle with the strong sirocco winds coming off the Sahara.
Essaouira is also a great place for kite surfing, thanks to those breezy conditions. You’ll find a number of schools on the main city beach (at the far end, away from the medina) with English-speaking instructors to help you get the hang of it. Again, all the equipment is provided for you, including helmets and wetsuits.
Get lost on purpose in the medina of Essaouira
If there’s ever a place to get lost, it’s Essaouira’s medina. There’s something to discover everywhere you turn in this 18th-century warren of narrow streets and alleyways, whether it’s a tiny, hole-in-the-wall shop selling beaded slippers or a food stall dishing up the tastiest local dishes. Arm yourself with a camera, a few dirhams and some comfortable shoes and spend a few hours aimlessly wandering.
Be sure to take in the architecture, too. Essaouira medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its mix of European and North African architecture. The cannon-topped ramparts are particularly impressive (and immediately recognisable to any Game of Thrones fans – more on that later).
Go horse riding
Riding a horse along a spectacular sandy beach at sunset isn’t a bad way to end the day, is it? On guided rides, you can trot in the surf, head out for picnics in secluded spots, and venture up into the sand dunes above the beach to take in widescreen views over the Atlantic Ocean. You don’t need to be an experienced rider to book these excursions, which is great for families with younger kids who might not have ridden before.
Channel your inner KhaleesiÂ
A number of Moroccan locations have charmed Game of Thrones‘ location scouts, and Essaouira was one of them. Fans of the show will instantly recognise the old town as Astapor, home of the ‘Unsullied’ army of slave soldiers. Follow in the footsteps of Daenerys Targaryen as you stroll along the Walk of Punishment (AKA the city ramparts). Skala du Port (or Sqala du Port), the honey-hued medieval bastion that looks over the medina, has a supporting role in a handful of scenes, too.Â
Go quad biking
Guided quad biking is perfect if you’re looking for more adventurous things to do in Essaouira, and a brilliant activity to do with kids and teenagers. We chose to book our quad biking through Get Your Guide and a company called Diana Quad. While our kids sat on the same quads as the adults in a two-seater quad, those who are over 13 can hire smaller-sized vehicles. We were even picked up by the team and taken straight to their head office where we were kitted out properly with helmets and windbreakers – and given a demonstration on how to operate the quad bikes.Â
What we found brilliant about the whole experience was the team themselves, who led us on our tour through other-worldly dunes across Diabat beach, stopping to admire views, and to let camels cross the tracks, plus even giving us the chance to race across the flat shorelines, for a bum-rattling adrenaline rush as the ocean spread out in front of us.
We loved every second of it – and it was one of the highlights of our trip. You can choose to spend an hour or two whizzing along, or book for a day trip that’ll take you further, exploring Berber villages, Argan forests and fishing communities.
Wander Diabat beach
Diabat is one of the most famous beaches in Essaouira. A few kilometres south of the medina, it was a hippie hangout back in the 1970s, drawing travellers in with its dreamy setting and atmospheric ruined palace nestled snugly in the dunes. Diabat’s claim to fame came when Jimi Hendrix visited – locals like to say that ‘Castles Made of Sand’ was inspired by his trip (though the song was actually written before he came here). You can go horseback riding and camel riding here, and drive quad bikes along the shore. You can even walk along the beach back up to Essaouira (just check the tide times before you set off for your visit to Diabat).
Devour crepes
With a very noticeable French influence in Essaouira, it would be impossible not to explore the medina and not come across a crepe stall or crepe café. Even our wonderful villa host (Dar Mayssoun), made us fresh crepes for breakfast. It’s a rite of passage in foodie terms, and you’d kick yourself if you didn’t at least try one!
We found many food stalls serving crepes within the medina, with all sorts of moreish toppings (of course, Nutella and Biscoff were a popular choice for my kids). One stall we went to a few times was Jooba Crepes – which due to its popularity, always had a healthy queue. Never a problem as watching the guys making them was entertaining enough.
Get squeaky clean with a hammam
A hammam is a way of life in Morocco, and a wonderful way to treat yourself – while experiencing local culture – during your holiday. One of the best things to do in Essaouira. If you’ve not had a hammam before, it’s a cleansing ritual where you’re rubbed and scrubbed by a masseuse until you’re squeaky clean. There’s soap, scrubbing and steam aplenty, and buckets of warm water sloshed over you at regular intervals. It’s brilliant. You can opt for a private hammam, like I did (often available in hotels and riads, as well as spas) or brave a public one (separated into male and female), where you’ll need to be comfortable stripping down in front of others.
With a wonderful recommendation from Jenny at Explore Essaouira, I opted for a private hamman at Azur Art & Spa. From the fluffy white robes and calm interiors to the heavenly mineral salts and steams of the tiled washrooms, my experience was relaxing – even sipping refreshing mint tea at the end of my one-hour session. Your skin is buffed and scrubbed until it’s sparkling.
You can choose from different packages – mine, which was called ‘Tonic’ and included a massage – and all for the bargain price of around £40-45 (500-550 dirhams).
Watch the sunset
Essaouira faces west, so of course you’re going to get some spectacular sunsets here. It was a tonic to watch the ocean, as a caravan of camels crossed your eyeline. You’d be hard pushed not to find a decent spot in Essaouira, as any overlooking the Atlantic Ocean will do, but our favourites included from the rooftop terraces of La Coupole restaurant and Salut Maroc, as well as Beach and Friends which is right down on the beach itself.
Enjoy Essaouria’s beach vibe
The beaches in Essaouira are hives of activity, whether it’s local kids playing a game of football after school, families strolling along the sand or diners tucking into fresh seafood plucked from the ocean that morning.
As mentioned earlier, Sidi Kaouki was our favourite spot, with its laidback vibe, rock pools and a cluster of bars and cafes. The main Essaouira beach can be too windy in the summer to just sit and sunbathe, but there’s so much to do around it that it wasn’t an issue for us at all.
Go camel riding
If horse riding along the beach doesn’t tempt you, how about clambering onto a camel instead? It’s a bit of a bumpy ride, but so much fun – and the photos you’ll get will be brilliant. There are a few different companies that run camel rides, from hour-long jaunts to longer trips where you’ll stop for picnics or mint tea and cakes on the beach. They tend to be family-friendly, too, just double-check the age limit when you book.
Explore the fish market
Essaouira is known for its deliciously fresh fish. Head to the bustling fish market and you can watch the day’s catch – from dozens of different boats – being hauled in and sold to locals, restaurant chefs and hungry tourists. Wander around, taking in the atmosphere, and perhaps head to one of the little stalls where you can buy a plateful of just-grilled sardines, oysters or squid. It’s noisy and frantic, but a wonderful way to appreciate Essaouira’s fishing heritage.
There are two fish markets in Essaouira. The one I’d recommend is the bigger, more authentic one by the port (Bab El Marsa). There’s also a more tourist-orientated one closer to Bab Doukkala.)
Learn to cook tagine
Cooking classes are one of the best things to do in Essaouira – what could be better than learning to make a delicious dish, one that’ll remind you of your trip every time you recreate it at home? Tagine is a Moroccan classic, and easy to make once you know the basics. It can be made with all sorts of different ingredients, from chicken with lemon and olives, to lamb with sweet dates and apricots. My top tip? Choose a class that includes a market trip and you’ll have an expert guide to lead you to the best spice merchants to select fragrant ginger, cinnamon, turmeric and more.
Go on a walking tour
Walking tours are always a great way to get under the skin of a new place, particularly if they’re led by an enthusiastic local who’ll fill you in on all those little snippets of info you wouldn’t get from a guidebook. Tours can show you those hidden spots and quiet alleys that you’d never discover on your own, revealing secret cafes and shops, and giving you a glimpse of local life playing out. You can join group tours or book a private one; there are also food-orientated ones for those who can’t wait to tuck into Essaouira’s tastiest dishes.
Tee off
If you’re a golf lover (like my husband), then Essaouira has a highly-rated golf course that backs onto the Atlantic Ocean. So while my husband was hacking at his ball in bunkers, he was also able to admire the amazing sea views! Part of the luxury Sofitel resort, the Mogador Golf Club has manicured fairways, surrounding countryside and two courses – the South and North, which both offer golfers a challenging game. A round of golf costs from £60 for 18-holes (750 dirhams).Â
Soak in the laidback charm
Essaouira offers a real contrast to Marrakech in terms of atmosphere. While Marrakech can be quite overwhelming, Essaouira is all about chilling out and taking it easy (just one of the reasons the hippie crowd made a beeline for it). There are so many brilliant things to do in Essaouira, but you could equally just fill your days aimlessly ambling through the medina, stopping for mint tea, pottering down by the beach and absorbing every drop of that laidback beachy charm. And to be fair, this was probably our favourite past time here.
Still unsure whether Essaouira is a great destination for a family holiday? Check out this post.